2023 Morillon Chardonnay

2023
Morillon Chardonnay

$75

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Tasting Profile

April 2024

The Morillon Chardonnay is sourced from 0.1 hectare within the oldest Chardonnay block (1.3 hectares) at Port Phillip Estate’s Red Hill vineyard. This block was planted in 1988 on a site nestled among folds of the hilly country in Red Hill. The Red Hill vineyard is dominated by red basalt, yet the Chardonnay block is planted in an area of sandy grey loam over yellow clay. With maturity, the original block consistently produces wine with an extra level of structure, balance and intensity. We bottle a small portion separately as the ultimate expression of Chardonnay from this vineyard.

The 2023 Morillon Chardonnay is expressive and layered, offering an alluring nose of grapefruit and citrus flesh, fresh lemon blossom, and white peach. Beneath this brightness lie savoury nuances of grilled cashew, crème fraîche, and subtle hints of flint and oyster shell woven together with gentle notes of oak toast and spice. It’s a wine that reveals its intricacy slowly, with each swirl of the glass uncovering another dimension. The palate is vibrant and finely detailed, opening with flavours of grapefruit citrus carried on a bright line of acidity. Subtle phenolics lend tension and structure, while a creamy mid-palate, infused with almond meal and spiced apple from extended lees contact, provides volume and texture. Long, poised, and intricately composed, this Chardonnay will continue to evolve, offering increasing depth and complexity with time in the cellar.

13.5% alc.

 

Tasting Profile 2023
Tasting Profile 2022
Tasting Profile 2021

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Reviews

Wine Pilot, March 2025

Jeni Port

A single block Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay you can set your watch to. Each release boasts an incredible energy married to exhilarating fruit. It never disappoints. The 2023 Morillon is an exercise in precision with a cool, low cropping vintage intensity. Aromas in citrus, nectarine, white peach, struck flint with lemon sorbet lift and verve. Pure fruit on the palate with a real fine-ness, so don’t over chill before serving. Flows brightly aided by a pulsing, bright acidity in league with ripe stone fruits, citrus, grapefruit pith with notes of lees-defined nougat and integrated vanillin oak. A real beauty of a Chardonnay.

95 points

The Wine Front, March 2025

Gary Walsh

From a block planted in 1988. 20% new French oak. A little struck match, white nectarine, grapefruit, lemon oil, light spiced oak. Flavour, intensity, a little cashew nut richness, lemon zest, and a bright finish of excellent length and precision. Juicy, with lots of zip and energy.

94+ points

Jancisrobinson.com, March 2025

Tamlin Currin

From the oldest block of Chardonnay in the Red Hill vineyard, east facing on sandy grey loam. Sustainable viticulture. Hand-picked. Whole-bunch pressed to French oak. Spontaneous fermentation in mostly puncheons and a range of other oak barrels, 20% new. No malolactic fermentation. Aged for around 10–11 months. A mercurial wine, changing in the glass moment to moment. Citrus. Then savoury, the smell of roasting hops. Chiselled, geometric, lapidary. Fractal. Spine-tingling. Ripe grapefruit, pomelo and lime. Crushed stones in the spine. Bitter orange. You cannot taste the oak at all, perhaps because there is so much here. The texture of poured glass. Complex and very elegant.

17.5 points

Halliday Wine Companion, March 2025

Jane Faulkner

Another very good chardonnay vintage, another very good Morillon. Upfront sulphides – all smoky and flinty – a real tease of funk. Good fruit to back that up – all citrusy and tangy, the palate reined-in by fine acidity, a gossamer layer of creamy lees and oak spice. Its outlook is savoury. It gives a drink-now impression yet will build more complexity in time.

95 points

Reviews 2023
Reviews 2022
Reviews 2021

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The Vintage

Spring remained cold and wet, with 389mm of rainfall, making it the wettest Spring in 25 years. These conditions were challenging for our viticultural team. Waterlogged soils prevented access to the vineyards, with critical tractor operations delayed several times. Flowering commenced mid to late November amid continuing cold and wet conditions, which protracted our flowering period over several weeks. These challenging conditions prevailed until late December when we finally welcomed warm and sunny days. Fortunately, all our vineyards remained disease-free. Conditions for most of January and February were ideal. All our vineyards were healthy, albeit with very low crop loads. The mild conditions throughout late February and early March made this part of the season almost perfect for slow and steady ripening. Harvest commenced on 3 March and concluded on 14 April, slightly later than usual. Weather conditions were mild with temperatures below average and rainfall above average, providing gradual ripening throughout harvest with rain events being the only pressure. Our viticulture team worked steadily to deliver pristine fruit to the winery. Yields were lower than average due to the cool and wet 2022 Spring. Despite the low yields, fruit quality is exceptional.
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The Vineyard

The Port Phillip Estate Red Hill vineyard is located on the Mornington Peninsula on Eocene volcanic soils. Our wines are made from domain grown, handpicked grapes and aim to manifest terroir: the integration of our geology and soils with the macroclimate of our region, the mesoclimates of the various sites within our vineyard and the weather of the annual grape growing season. Our cultural operations in the vineyard and practices in the winery endeavour to articulate these unique characteristics diligently, respectfully and without artifice.

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