This single-block wine was sourced from just 0.7 ha of 22-year-old gently sloping Chardonnay vines within the 2.76 ha Farrago block. The mottled appearance of the clay soil in the Farrago block is caused by a high percentage of ironstone pebbles, much like the Ferrous block. This siliceous influence infuses the resulting wines with linearity and minerality. The fruit was gently whole-bunch pressed directly into French oak barriques (20% of which were new), and fermentation commenced spontaneously with ambient yeasts. Following fermentation, the wine was aged on lees (without battonage) for 11 months and the wine was racked only once, directly prior to bottling. The wine was bottled without fining and with minimal filtration.
The 2020 Farrago Chardonnay displays a fascinating combination of aromas; mandarin zest, fleshy stone fruits and almond meal, together with subtle notes of flint and a warming oak-derived spice. The palate has great concentration with intense pithy grapefruit acidity. It shows a typical power and focus with distinct candied citrus and fresh stone fruit flavours together with a moreish texture. Looking youthful at this stage, this wine will significantly benefit from time in the cellar.
Halliday Wine Companion 2023, August 2022
Both single-vineyard chardonnays are on song, as Farrago opens up to a reveal layers of flavour from stone fruit, citrus to creamy lees with tight yet refreshing acidity reining everything in. It’s luscious without being heavy, with plenty of energy and drive. This is a touch racier than Faultline, yet both are moreish and satisfying.
The Kooyong vineyard is located on the Mornington Peninsula at Tuerong, on Miocene sedimentary soils. Our wines are made from domain grown, handpicked grapes and aim to manifest terroir: the integration of our geology and soils with the macroclimate of our region, the mesoclimates of the various sites within our vineyard and the weather of the annual grape growing season. Our cultural operations in the vineyard and practices in the winery endeavour to articulate these unique characteristics diligently, respectfully and without artifice.