This single-block wine is sourced from just 0.7 ha of 21-year-old gently sloping Chardonnay vines within the 2.76 ha Farrago block. The mottled appearance of the clay soil in the Farrago block is caused by a high percentage of ironstone pebbles, much like the Ferrous vineyard. This siliceous influence helps infuse the resulting wines with linearity and minerality.
The fruit was gently whole-bunch pressed directly into French oak barriques (18% of which were new), and fermentation occurred spontaneously with ambient yeasts. Following fermentation, the wine was aged on lees (without battonage) for 11 months and the wine was racked only once, directly prior to bottling. The wine was bottled without fining and with minimal filtration.
While not usually shy, the 2019 Farrago needs some coaxing to reveal its pure form. The hallmark fruit characters are present – yellow grapefruit and mandarin peel. Savoury interest comes from notes of fresh nuts and almonds, and gingery spice.
A powerful linear acidity drives long into a pithy grapefruit rind finish. Citrus flavours appear on the palate, together with a touch of oak spice and some complexing sulphides. Length, balance and powerful acidity suggest the wine will gain high amounts of interest with time in the cellar.
The Winefront, July 2021
Sweet spice, custard, stone fruit and ripe citrus, fennel. It’s packed with flavour, a distinct almost lime cordial thing happening, intensity and chalk dust texture, firm but ripe acid bite, and a long spiced peach and borderline tropical fruit finish.
Wine Pilot, July 2021
Chardonnay of the highest calibre. Minerals and pears kick off the array of aromas. Beautifully integrated oak, which is as close to invisible as one could wish. A hint of honeycomb, followed by stonefruit notes, a weave of grapefruit and nuts. An elegant and expressive chardonnay, nicely balanced. There is an underlying gentle, but pleasing, smoky touch. The wine offers good acidity and excellent length. A superb chardonnay in the more restrained sphere. More Grand Cru Chablis than Meursault. Great value when compared to what is asked for some other top flagship chardonnays.
Halliday Wine Companion 2022, August 2021
It’s a little shy at first, then gains confidence, delivering white peach and grapefruit, spiced up with ginger and a fleck of fresh herbs. The palate has depth and generosity, with the oak flavouring an interplay. Yet fine acidity keeps it tight, as moreish sulphides kick in, adding a savoury edge and a lingering finish.
The Kooyong vineyard is located on the Mornington Peninsula at Tuerong, on Miocene sedimentary soils. Our wines are made from domain grown, handpicked grapes and aim to manifest terroir: the integration of our geology and soils with the macroclimate of our region, the mesoclimates of the various sites within our vineyard and the weather of the annual grape growing season. Our cultural operations in the vineyard and practices in the winery endeavour to articulate these unique characteristics diligently, respectfully and without artifice.