This single-block wine is sourced from just 0.7 ha of 20-year-old gently sloping Chardonnay vines within the 2.76 ha Farrago block. The mottled appearance of the clay soil in the Farrago block is caused by a high percentage of ironstone pebbles, much like the Ferrous vineyard. This siliceous influence helps infuse the resulting wines with linearity and minerality. The grapes were gently whole-bunch pressed directly into French oak barriques (of which 15% were new), where fermentation occurred spontaneously with ambient yeasts. Following fermentation, the wine was aged on lees (without battonage) for 11 months, with the only racking occurring directly prior to bottling. The wine was bottled without fining and with minimal filtration.
The 2018 Farrago opens to a bright bouquet of yellow grapefruit, tangerine and fresh-cut pineapple, complemented by a hint of flint and crushed biscuit. With time, slightly more exotic notes of fenugreek and pearl barley are revealed. The palate is powerful and intense while displaying great clarity and charm. Zesty acid drives the wine, with red grapefruit and lemon peel flavours dominating. Succulence on the long and broadening finale is capped off with ginger spice, oats and orange pith flavours. This wine will greatly reward time in the cellar.
Wine of the Week, March 2020
It is almost impossible to go wrong with the single-vineyard chardonnay releases from esteemed Mornington Peninsula producer Kooyong; you can taste the attention to detail adopted by winemaker Glen Hayley and his vineyard team. This razor-sharp single-block wine is sourced from just 1.02 hectares of near 20-year-old chardonnay vines within the 2.76 hectare Farrago block. French oak and lees stirring have played a role but linear intensity and flinty minerality are the key element. If you love citrusy Chablis with zesty drive then you won’t want to miss this. Well worth splashing out on.
JeremyOliver.com, May 2020
Typically mineral and textural, with a faintly smoky bouquet of grapefruit, matchstick/vanilla oak, ginger and coriander backed by a whiff of oyster shell brine. Round and succulent with a moderately long and slatey palate of intense citrusy fruit and brittle acids, it finishes with savoury, briny notes.
WineFront, March 2020
Clean lines of varietal flavour. Custard apples, white peach, maybe some grapefruit. Smoky oak. Grilled nuts. It’s a wine in good form if not great form. It has an elegance, especially on the finish. And some subtle flinty notes.
Wine of the Week, March 2020
A stunning chardonnay which has vitality and pizzazz. Cashew nut, creamy lees, lemon and grapefruit aromas and flavours. The palate is tautly-composed and refined, intense and lingering.
The Kooyong vineyard is located on the Mornington Peninsula at Tuerong, on Miocene sedimentary soils. Our wines are made from domain grown, handpicked grapes and aim to manifest terroir: the integration of our geology and soils with the macroclimate of our region, the mesoclimates of the various sites within our vineyard and the weather of the annual grape growing season. Our cultural operations in the vineyard and practices in the winery endeavour to articulate these unique characteristics diligently, respectfully and without artifice.