
Kooyong is located on the Mornington Peninsula at Tuerong and focuses on producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wine; which are both suited to the Peninsula’s cool maritime climate. Kooyong is a ‘domain’ in the true sense of the word and the wines are made from 100% estate grown fruit at its own on-site winery.
Rains in the Winter of 2008 were encouraging and although budburst was early, conditions were more typical for Spring and early Summer than for the previous several years. The cool weather did compromise flowering and fruit set however, so the yield potential was low. Concurrent days of extreme heatwave conditions in early February had an understandably severe impact, sunburning fruit on the western sides of the vine rows. However, for the growth stage of the fruit at Kooyong this simply resulted in shrivel and drop of scorched berries, reducing yield further but not compromising quality. The resulting harvest was about 50% less than what is considered appropriate for Kooyong but asides from the week of freakish heat, the 2008 – 2009 growing season was essentially benign, with amenable temperatures and rainfall events occurring at appropriate intervals. The tiny yields produced wines of high natural acidity and unusually intense varietal fruit character.
The 2009 Kooyong Farrago Chardonnay is a single site wine produced from 1.0 hectare of estate vineyard
The fruit is whole bunch pressed and barrel fermented in French oak (30% new) without yeast inoculation. The sur lie maturation period is 12 months.
12.5% vol
Bright light lemon colour. Unmistakeably Farrago with a nose of lemon sorbet, tangelo and fresh cream. The vineyard site’s crushed quartzy minerality secures the palate, along with notes of meyer lemon and orange citrus, again the fresh cream and finishing with a mealy citrus pithiness. Delicate, fine and in good stead for further bottle age.
Will reward further bottle ageing.
Like the Faultline... this is just 12.5 per cent alcohol but has more body. It has a fresh cashew-nut aroma, leading into a rich, full-bodied palate with power and length. Good intensity of zesty grapefruit flavour. 94 points, 5 stars
HUON HOOKE
Shy aromatics but you can make out barley sugar, lemon and green apple which is echoed in the palate but with searing intensity. Very fine, lighter feel with raciness deployed over power. 93/100
MIKE BENNIE
An attractive greenish tinge here; the nose has a fine array of nectarine, melon and white peach, with hints of lemon and cucumber, and there’s subdued complexity lurking here too. The palate is precise and concentrated, with more of the white stone fruits, some grapefruit and deeply wound savoury oak, along with sizzling acid that adds plenty of life and intensity. Stylish wine. 95 points.
NICK STOCK
A sleeper, whose pungent bouquet of grapefruit, melon and dried figs reveals smoky, nutty and floral complexity, this luscious, smooth and sumptuous chardonnay slowly unfolds the true length and focus of its rather Macon-like palate. Underpinned by savoury, nutty aspects, its tangy citrusy fruit is neatly punctuated by a bright acidity. 94 points
JEREMY OLIVER
Pale quartz-green; opens relatively quietly, the bouquet clean but reluctant to show its hand first up, fruit appearing with some teasing; the palate, while very fine, is immediately expressive and harmonious, with white peach, a touch of cashew, and citrusy acidity.
95 Points
JAMES HALLIDAY